Journal of Oceanography and Marine Research
Open Access

Technological Approaches to Wave Prediction and Its Impact on Coastal Engineering

Jack Ramsey^{* *}Correspondence: Jack Ramsey, Department of Oceanography, University of Oxford, Oxford, United Kingdom, Email:

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Description

Waves are one of the most recognizable and dynamic features of the ocean, embodying the ceaseless energy and motion that characterize marine environments. In oceanography, the study of waves is fundamental for understanding the physical, ecological, and even societal impacts of ocean dynamics. Ocean waves are primarily generated by wind, although other types, such as tidal and seismic waves, originate from gravitational forces and tectonic activity. Wind-driven waves, or surface waves, dominate the ocean's surface. Their characteristics wavelength, height, period, and speed are determined by the wind's strength, duration and the distance over which it blows, known as fetch. From a physical perspective, waves are energy transfer mechanisms rather than mass transport systems. Water particles move in circular orbits, with energy propagating horizontally across the ocean surface. This energy dissipation through wave breaking is critical for processes like coastal erosion, sediment transport and nutrient mixing.

Types of ocean waves

Oceanography classifies waves based on their generating forces and scales:

Capillary waves: Tiny ripples with wavelengths less than a few centimeters, primarily influenced by surface tension.

Wind-generated waves: The most common waves, ranging from small ripples to massive swells.

Tsunamis: Long-wavelength waves triggered by underwater seismic activity, landslides, or volcanic eruptions.

Tidal waves: Governed by gravitational interactions between the earth, moo and sun.

Internal waves: Occurring within the ocean’s layers, often at the thermocline and driven by density differences.

Each type of wave plays a distinct role in oceanographic processes, influencing ecosystems, global climate patterns and coastal dynamics.

Waves and coastal dynamics

Waves play an important role in shaping coastlines through processes such as erosion, sediment transport and deposition. The energy of breaking waves sculpts coastal features, creating cliffs, beaches, and sandbars. Longshore currents, generated by angled wave approaches, drive sediment along the shore, influencing beach morphology.

Wave activity also impacts ecosystems like coral reefs and mangroves. Coral reefs, for instance, act as natural barriers, dissipating wave energy and protecting shorelines from erosion. Conversely, excessive wave energy, often increased by storms or human activities, can damage these ecosystems, undermining their protective functions.

Ecological importance of waves

Beyond their physical impacts, waves are critical to marine ecosystems. The mixing of water caused by waves enhances nutrient availability in surface layers, supporting primary productivity by phytoplankton. This process support marine food webs and drives global carbon cycling.

Internal waves, though less visible, have extreme ecological effects. These subsurface waves transport nutrients, oxygen and heat between ocean layers, influencing the distribution of marine life. In coastal regions, internal wave breaking can bring nutrient-rich deep water to the surface, fueling productivity in
areas like upwelling zones.

Waves and climate interactions

Waves cooperate with the atmosphere in ways that influence climate systems. Sea spray generated by breaking waves injects aerosols into the atmosphere,  affecting cloud formation and radiative forcing. Moreover, waves play a role in modulating airsea gas exchange, a critical process for the global carbon cycle. Wave-driven processes also contribute to the dissipation of storm energy. During hurricanes and typhoons, large waves dissipate wind energy, reducing the storm’s impact. However, the intensification of extreme weather events due to climate change raises concerns about the growing destructive potential of stormgenerated  waves.

Technological advances in wave studies

The study of ocean waves has been revolutionized by technological advancements. Remote sensing tools like satellites and radar altimeters provide global-scale observations of wave heights, lengths and directions. In situ measurements from buoys and autonomous vehicles complement these data, offering high-resolution insights into wave dynamics. Numerical models, incorporating fluid dynamics and atmospheric interactions, have enhanced wave prediction capabilities. These models are indispensable for applications ranging from weather predict to the design of coastal infrastructure.

Conclusion

Waves are both a symbol and a driver of the ocean’s dynamism. Their study is integral to oceanography, bridging physics, ecology and human dimensions. From the smallest capillary ripples to the devastating power of tsunamis, waves influence the planet’s natural systems and the lives of its inhabitants. As technological advancements and interdisciplinary research deepen our understanding, the study of waves will remain central to addressing the challenges and opportunities of a changing ocean.